![]() A lot of people don't know this, but the frame of the receptacle is in electrical contact with the box. Then you'd have a box that's exposed for anyone to touch and "zap". The reason is because a chafed wire, broken down insulation, a gum wrapper in the wrong place or anything could inadvertently make contact with a hot wire (see that screw on the receptacle where the black wire goes? Pretty close to the box, eh?) and the metal box. Quote from: chipwitch on March 22, 2014, 02:39:03 am Yes, grounding the box is code, but it's really just customary on anything to ground anything metal that isn't directly electrified. I hope I'm not being too presumptuous by volunteering so much info? Of course, you can jump it with a piece of copper wire. ![]() Make sure the jumpers are there or else one receptacle will be dead. They're intended to be broken off to isolate the top and bottom receptacles in case you want to feed them with separate circuits or have one on a switch. Look closely, there is a small jumper that juts out a bit that electrically ties together those two screws. Also, you will see two screws for the black and two for the white. if it's used, make sure you get the black and white on the right screw black is on the right, white is on the left as you're facing it with the ground jack down. that receptacle you're going to replace it with. Just leave as close to that as you can and you're good. ![]() That "rule" is nearly ALWAYS violated by electricians because it isn't always practical. Code says a minimum of 6" needs to stick out of the box. Whatever you do, don't cut it flush with the sheathing. Though, stripping the wire and taping are overkill. Listen to the warnings about the red wire. It's no longer legal, by code, but it was legal up to about 15 maybe 20 years ago. If you can't ground the box easily, if you have a "self-grounding" receptacle, it will act as a ground for the box. Seen the same thing with a metal kitchen sink before too. If the neutral wire touches the box, or even if the box is mounted to a metal conduit that goes under ground, there may be a potential difference (voltage) between the box and the ground you're standing on. If the box gets electrified and it's not grounded, anyone who touches that screw with bare feet on tile could conceivably be killed. And the trim screw that holds on the plate screws into the frame. Yes, grounding the box is code, but it's really just customary on anything to ground anything metal that isn't directly electrified. It would help if I could see what yours is like. There are so many wiring methods, it'll make your head spin. Take some pictures of the outlet if you need more help. Stopped that about 35 years ago, I believe. You wouldn't happen to live in a multifamily would you? If the wire is in conduit and the building is a little older, they used to allow the metal conduit to carry the ground. Also check any boxes on the other side of the wall that may be on the same circuit (sometimes multiple circuits can also be in the same box, so be careful with that too.) A loose ground under a wire nut isn't uncommon. Look to outlets and switches nearest to the one not working (assuming everything looks good in the outlet in question). And it could also be the ground was dropped in a nearby box as well. Point is, it's very likely a simple issue, but it could be just about anything. Often times, insulated grounds will be stranded wire, which doesn't make a good "mechanical connection." Unlike solid wire, which a good electrician will twist tight before binding with a wire nut, stranded wire wants to unravel. If the ground in the outlet box is insulated, depending on your local codes and wiring methods, multifamily homes are almost always insulated here, it could be that a ground wasn't mechanically twisted together well before binding them with a wire nut. Since all your other outlets seem to be grounded, It's probably a simple fix.
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